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Jeep Front Brake Overhaul - Caliper and Brake Pad Installation

Author: ThePhantum

***DISCLAIMER - Please note that this writeup reflects my experiences only and anyone using it for reference or as a guide, etc. does so at their own risk. You may link to this writeup, but you must obtain my permission to re-post it elsewhere.***

In the first part of this write-up, I explained how I disassembled the front brakes on my Jeep Cherokee as part of a break overhaul. Follow along as I install new calipers and brake pads.

Installing calipers
The first thing that needs to be done is the slide bushings need to be removed from the old caliper and installed in the boots in the new one. As the caliper compresses/decompresses and as the pads wear, the bushings allow the caliper to slide on them.

The pictures pretty much say it all on how to get them out.
Remove the pistons from the caliper
Remove the piston from the calipers

A closer look at the slide bushing reveals a lip on either end that the boot needs to "snap" into. So when installing them in the new caliper, make sure they are snug in their new homes.
Side bushing
Slide bushing in caliper
Slide bushing in caliper

Now, onto the brake line. Each new caliper should come with two of these:
Brake line washer

When you remove the bolt holding the brakeline to the caliper the order will be bolt head, washer, brake fitting, washer. Replace the two old washers with the washers that came with the caliper. I did not get pictures of this because I did it quickly (to lose as little brake fluid as possible). Make sure you have a catch pan and if you like your paint job, don't get and brake fluid on it....that stuff eats paint. Here's the bolt that needs to be removed.
Remove the bolt securing the brake line

Brake Pads
If you were not replacing the calipers, you're in the right place. If you did replace the calipers, go wash your hands and the get brake fluid off them...we don't want that stuff getting all over the brake pads.

First figure out which pad is the inboard and which is the outboard. Then apply some disc brake quiet/ anti-squeal to the back of the pad. DO NOT APPLY IT TO THE FRICTION SURFACE!!! Just put some on the back of the pad and spread it around as evenly as possible.
Apply anti-squea compound to the back of the brake padl

When complete, it should look a little something like this:
Apply anti-squeal compound to the back of the brake pad

Now, using the opposite of what you did to remove the pads from the caliper, install the new ones (remember to make sure that the location lugs on the outboard pad are lined up with the ones in the caliper.)
Install the new brake pads in the caliper

After the pads are in, you can install the rotor on the lugs, followed by installing the caliper. There are tabs at the bottom of the pads that you'll need to line up in order for the caliper to slip on.
Install the rotor and caliper

Now just reinstall the caliper bolts and tighten to spec.

After you've bled all four brakes, start the vehicle and step on the brake (you might have to pump them to compress the new pads onto the rotors and bring the pedal up), then turn off the engine and hold the pedal down. If the pedal does not sink after 15-20 seconds, you're set. If the pedal does sink, the system should be bled again.

Once that's done, install your wheels and take the vehicle for a test drive, but go easy at first. If something is going to fail, it will most likely be right away. Besides, you don't want to glaze over your brandie new pads.

Stoppin' on a dime,
Steve

***DISCLAIMER - Please note that this writeup reflects my experiences only and anyone using it for reference or as a guide, etc. does so at their own risk. You may link to this writeup, but you must obtain my permission to re-post it elsewhere.***

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